Photo: AP
Clara Iaccarino walks the city that never sleeps to sample some of New York's finest food, drink and culture.
It's Monday night and already we've been to a musical featuring foul-mouthed puppets and an evening jumble sale at a bar where you bring your preloved clothes and walk away with someone else's.
We're now bound for rock'n'roll karaoke with a live band in a former grocery store, Arlene's Grocery to be precise.
We're in a New York state of mind: sensory overload on what would be the quietest night of the week in any other city.
And there's no better place to melt into the wee hours than down in the Big Apple's Lower East Side (LES).
Much loved for its restaurants, bars, live-music venues and dark and dingy nightclubs, the LES has more nightlife options than even the most voracious barfly can handle.
Rivington and Ludlow streets mark the heart of this lively New York 'hood with everything from a battered Mexican diner with the best (and cheapest) margaritas around, to an all-night creperie, a wine bar with a great view of the LES mess and a punky pub with red-lipsticked and tattooed bartenders serving up cheap beer and shooters of Jameson's.
Arlene's Grocery
A former convenience store and now a live-music venue and sloshy bar, Arlene's Grocery attracts as many rockers as it does alcohol-fuelled college boys. Monday nights are jam-packed as a live band pumps rock classics for frontman wannabes doing their karaoke best.
Last visit we saw Bob, a businessman belting Rage Against the Machine numbers, who finished with a speech urging the crowd to support Barack Obama as fellow Democrat Hilary Clinton pulled out of the US presidential race.
Established bands fill out the week and if you don't fancy taking a gamble in the live room, the front bar is a perfect location for indulging in that late-night tipple. Details Arlene's Grocery, 95 Stanton Street (Ludlow and Orchard streets), see www.arlenesgrocery.net, phone +212 995 1652.
'inoteca
A touch of Italy on the LES, 'inoteca comes complete with Italian-speaking waiting staff and a menu in Italiano, too.
Secure a table in the late afternoon, order a cheese platter, a glass of rose {aac} or a bottle of one of the delicious reds or whites and let the passing parade entertain.
Equally cosy on a winter evening, 'inoteca has all the trimmings of a true European wine bar, which is why the accents you'll hear filtering through the bar are as exotic as the wine list. Details 'inoteca, 98 Rivington (Ludlow Street), see www.inotecanyc.com, phone +212 614 0473.
Creperie
If you're not lured by the smell of the freshly sizzling crepes, perhaps the herds of satisfied customers will tempt you. Serving savoury and sweet creations, the LES Creperie folk are as patient as they are skilful.
They deal with the drunken louts pining for a cheese-and-ham feast without so much as a raised eyebrow and still manage to dish up perfect crepes no matter how close to dawn the clock ticks. Wedge yourself into the tiny hole-in-the-wall at a stool along the wall, or if you're lucky, the front table could be yours. Details Creperie, 135 Ludlow (between Rivington and Stanton streets), phone +212 979 5543.
El Sombrero
Apparently the locals refer to El Sombrero as "the hat". Either way, this is an establishment that has earned its familiarity. The faded exterior and the shabby interior are no reflection on the tasty Mexican treats and the killer margaritas.
It's a top spot to kick off any LES drinking adventure and if you feel inclined to take your alcoholic slushie on the road, there's a classy paper Coke cup primed and ready. Details El Sombrero, 108 Stanton Street (Ludlow Street), phone +212 254 4188.
Katz's Delicatessen
Everything in Katz's Delicatessen promises to be original, famous and by far the city's best. The pastrami is what they come for but the salami spread, burgers and mile-high sandwiches tend to keep the bulging-gut regulars grinning.
Once you have committed to the overwhelming world that is Katz's, take your entry ticket and join any server's line.
A well-worn New York establishment, this deli is worth a peep even if you can't stomach one of the specialties. Details Katz's Delicatessen, 205 East Houston Street (Ludlow Street), see www.katzdeli.com, phone +212 614 2246.
Freeman's
The walls are lined with stuffed animals and fairy lights show the way to this fine restaurant at the end of a slightly shady alley but Freeman's deserves its mantle as one of the Lower East Side's most popular restaurants. It serves one of the city's best martinis and the menu includes a stellar filet mignon as well as tempting appetisers. And when it comes to dessert, the chocolate brownie takes the prize.
There is often a long wait for a table come dinner but it is worth doing the time and there are two bars to keep you occupied and well watered. Rumour has it weekend brunch is superb, too. Details Freeman's, end of Freeman Alley (Rivington Street), (+212) 420 0012.
Iggy's Keltic Lounge
Iggy's jukebox throbs with everything from Prince to Guns N' Roses and the lights are always way down low, hiding the blend of preppy boys and grungy artistic types.
The bartending women sport an unofficial uniform of red lipstick, full-body tattoos and tight, plunging black singlets.
They serve the bar-side loners with as wide a smile as they do the locals who share whiskey shooters with the staff at regular intervals. An undercurrent of punk flair permeates, but Iggy's welcomes night owls of all persuasions. Details 132 Ludlow Street (Rivington Street), phone +212 529 2731.
Rockwood Music Hall
When it comes to live music, you're spoilt for choice in the LES. There's the all-in musical chaos of Pianos, the quirky hybrid record-store-come-coffee-shop-and-bar, the Cake Shop, and the late-night black-box basement, Fat Baby.
But when it comes to intimacy and affordability, Rockwood Music Hall is special.
Even when you're pressed up against the window, you are never more than five metres from the stage. There's a different act every hour on the hour from 6pm until midnight and while there's no cover charge, the bartender is right on top of the one-drink minimum as soon as you settle into your chair. They pass a tin around collecting donations for the musicians mid-set. Details Rockwood Music Hall, 196 Allen Street (East Houston and Stanton streets), see www.rockwoodmusichall.com, phone + 212 477 4155.
