I'm looking through the lens of a camera at the Great Pyramid of Giza, trying to fit its vast expanse into a single frame, when the fast patter of flying feet warns of possible danger. From behind, a camel is being driven towards me at speed. I quickly move forward to let it pass, the beast and its animated rider, who's been touting for tourist dollars in exchange for photo ops, are being chased by a policeman also atop a camel. Minor drama averted, I return to my "spot" only to find it's been occupied by half a dozen other camera-toting visitors, who spend the next 10 minutes enjoying essential Kodak moments in front of one of the Great Wonders of the World.
Patience is a virtue, however, and after a week of intensive sightseeing at some of the world's most important ancient archaeological sites, I've learned that it pays to have a relaxed outlook on life when things get a bit crowded.
The balmy waters of the Mediterranean surround many diverse countries, some of which are home to the world's most important ancient empires. And a comfortable way to pack a number of them into one trip is to see them from a cruise ship.
Our home for our 12-day exploration of the eastern Mediterranean was the Crystal Serenity, a 68,000-tonne, five-star floating resort. Carrying just 1080 passengers, it's a spacious and elegant vessel, fusing luxury facilities with top-notch, European-style service.
Our cruise began with an overnight stay in the historic city of Istanbul, giving us a day and a half to explore Turkey's most populous city and cultural centre. After much debate, we opted to focus on the "big three" - Topkapi Palace, the Basilica of St Sophia, and the magnificent Blue Mosque. After this, we sailed at night, and as the Serenity eased its way down the Bosporus, Istanbul's kaleidoscope of illuminated minarets and lights slowly faded into the darkness. A leisurely day cruising the Dardanelles gave us time to catch our breath and explore the ship. Together with a sister ship, the Symphony, the Crystal Serenity has claimed Travel+Leisure magazine's "world's best large ship cruise line" award for the past 12 years. It's easy to see why.
A typical day goes something like this: you wake in your penthouse suite, and the butler arrives with a breakfast of fresh fruit, eggs and coffee, set up on your own private balcony (85 per cent of the accommodation has one).
On sea days it's possible to do as little or as much as you like. You can flop into a sunbed by the pool with a good book; go to an enrichment lecture; have a spa treatment; hit the gym; or watch a DVD in your suite. In the early evening, you dress for dinner and head for the Avenue Saloon. After a martini or two, it's off to dinner in one of five restaurants, and later to a Broadway-style show in the Galaxy Lounge, or a relaxing nightcap in one of the bars - or on your own balcony. Then you go to bed, wake up the next day and do it all over again - somewhere different.
Food is a significant part of the cruise experience today, and in recent years Crystal has raised the bar on fine dining at sea. The Serenity has five top-quality dining venues to choose from, including the Asian-themed Silk Road, inspired by the Japanese master chef Nobu Matsuhisa and the classic Italian, Prego.
Selected cruises also have specific food and wine themes - ours included.
Among the many culinary treats was a demonstration by the world-renowned chef Anton Mosimann, and a specially prepared banquet showing off some of his exquisite cuisine.
It's possible to spend an entire cruise aboard a ship like this and never venture ashore, or skip certain destinations on a busy itinerary in favour of a sleep-in. But this cruise had unmissable sights at every stop. From Kusadasi we hired a motorbike and took a trip out to the nearby ancient city of Ephesus - arguably the Aegean's best-preserved antiquity.
On good advice we parked the bike at the bottom of the hill and took a taxi to the top gate to start our downwards trek of this ancient, ruined city. When Ephesus was at the height of its golden age - the second century AD - it was home to more than 300,000 people, and in spite of being inland was one of the principal ports of the Mediterranean. There are many important sights to pack into a visit here: the Arcadian Way, the Roman Forum, the restored Celsus Library, and the theatre.
The following day, Rhodes proved to be another surprise, and a highlight of the cruise. The island is steeped in mythology and legend, and although it has a reputation as a holiday destination, the capital's old town is a maze of narrow cobbled streets and old buildings, presided over by a turreted castello.
The cruise ended with an overnight stay in Athens, affording us plenty of time to visit the mighty Acropolis, and reluctantly tackle the inevitable chore of packing bags ahead of going home. At times the entire trip was surreal, leaving us with the feeling that we'd led two separate lives for 12 days.
One minute we were exploring an ancient civilisation, coping with heat, crowds and history. The next, we were sipping cocktails in a moving lounge, watching a picture-perfect sunset over the Mediterranean, and wondering if caviar would be on the menu again tonight.
True adventurers may scoff, but for those who prefer to see the world in comfort and style, there's nothing quite like a cruise. Why should you make any sacrifices, when you can have it all?
The writer and photographer were guests of Crystal Cruises.
TRIP NOTES
* The Crystal Serenity and the Symphony cruise the Mediterranean between April and November and there are a variety of itineraries on offer. For example, a 12-day cruise from Athens to Rome (Civitavecchia) on October 6 (visiting Volos, Kusadasi, Rhodes, Alexandria, Sardinia and Naples) costs from $US4835 ($5547) per person, double occupancy (cruise only - includes accommodation, entertainment and food), plus port and fuel surcharges. Gratuities and alcoholic beverages are extra. See http://www.crystalcruises.com or phone 1800 251 174.
