Wine can be red, pink or white, but it should also always
be green, says Tim White.
Casting a ray of sunshine in our carbon-constrained world is Californian wine producer Beringer, which now boasts the biggest solar installation of any US winemaker. Their 6000 solar panels on Foster's-owned winery rooftops amount to more solar panels than in all Australian wineries put together.
The availability of sunlight in this country is certainly not
one of the limiting factors. At the same time as we under-exploit
our most abundant natural resource (sunlight) we over-exploit our
most valuable and limited, water.
As consumers, we are paying more attention to the environmental
impact of what we buy, and local winemakers are responding. Some
growers manage their vineyards without the use of artificial
pesticides; others are reducing their carbon footprints. But how do
you know whether the wine you're drinking has been produced with
efficient irrigation practices?
Some producers on the Murray, such as Chalmers and Trentham Estate,
are leading the way in efficient - "sustainable" - river water use.
Both have produced great white wines from the '08 vintage.
And look out for the words "dry-grown" on labels. These tend to be found on old vine shiraz and grenache from the Barossa Valley: think, for example, of Hewitson's excellent Miss Harry Dry Grown.
Max Allen's excellent website redwhiteandgreen.com.au lists all
Australian producers who use biodynamic farming practices,
certified or not.
Morning Sun Pinot Noir 2006, Mornington Peninsula, Vic,
$33 (www.morningsun.com)
Opens up to reveal cherry pit, rhubarb compote and raspberry fruit
aromas. Attacks tangy, with masses of silky raspberry and plum
fruit. Still has an edge to it and balancing, caressing tannins.
From a tiny dry-grown vineyard on the Peninsula.
Ngeringa J E Rosé 2008, Adelaide Hills, SA, $30
(Cloudwine)
Fragrant and fudge scented with loads of strawberries,
subtle toast and a sniff of bitter orange chocolate. Tastes as good
as it smells, with tingly forest pips and gentle, balancing
acidity. Great mid-palate and the fruit really lingers.
Biodynamically grown.
Zilzie Bulloak Carbon Neutral Chardonnay 2008, Murray
Darling, Vic, $11 (First Choice)
Ripe melon-pear fruit mixed with cooler, crunchier-smelling
pear-skin and oak toastiness. A similar mix of sweet-tasting and
crunchy fruit in the mouth, although things get just a bit cloying
at the back, and the oak sticks out a bit.
