Executive Style

Millionaire watches get a makeover

April 6, 2011
Hublot's $2.8m Vendome Tourbillon movement. Click for more photos

Watches of Basel

Hublot's $2.8m Vendome Tourbillon movement.

  • Hublot's $2.8m Vendome Tourbillon movement.
  • Visitors walk past the Chronoswiss showcase at Baselworld fair in Basel.
  • RAYMOND WEIL: Parsifal Day-Date, RRP $4,295.
  • RAYMOND WEIL: Maestro Tradition Chronograph, RRP $3,795.
  • Longines Calibre 262.
  • The Fabrice Gonet HD3 Slyde.
  • Muhle-Glashutte Teutonia III Handaufzug.
  • Muhle-Glashutte Marinas 1830.
  • BALL Watch: Fireman Storm Chaser DLC, RRP $3,580.
  • Longines Retrograde moon phases L2739.
  • Muhle-Glashutte Terranaught III Trail.
  • BALL Watch:  Engineer Hydrocarbon Ceramic, RRP $3,900.
  • BALL Watch: Engineer Hydrocarbon Ceramic, RRP $3,900.
  • Muhle-Glashutte Germanika 1690.
  • A collection of Tiffany & Co watches sit on display during the Baselworld watch fair in Basel, Switzerland.
  • RAYMOND WEIL: Maestro Tradition Moonphase, RRP $2.999.
  • BALL Watch: Fireman Storm Chaser DLC, RRP $3,580.
  • Tag Heuer Carrera Muse 1945.
  • A collection of Rolex watches sit on display during this year's Baselworld watch fair in Switzerland.
  • Tag Heuer Monaco V4.
  • Tag Heuer Carrera WAS2150 FC.
  • Ulysse Nardin's Chairman smartphone/watch hybrid.
  • Ulysse Nardin's Chairman smartphone/watch hybrid.
  • Tissot SA time pieces sit on display at the Baselworld watch fair in Basel, Switzerland.
  • Frederique Constant Vintage Racing Collection: Peking to Paris, RRP $3,450.
  • A visitor in front of a Rolex display at the world watch and jewelry show 'Baselworld' in Basel, Switzerland.

It was a festival of super-bling, as a $2.8m diamond encrusted watch dazzled crowds at the world's biggest watch and jewellery fair in Basel.

Starting life as a hand-sketched design at last year's fair, construction of 18k white gold Vendôme Tourbillon movement was a top secret "light-hearted” challenge between the company's chief executive and its master gemstone setters, said Hublot.

Clocking up thousands of hours of diamond cutting and setting, the watch was a year in the making and was only completed a day before BaselWorld 2011.

But it wasn't only big-ticket bling that inspired watchmakers at this year's show.

With the younger generation opting to use their smartphones to tell time, the watch-making industry has been struggling to reinvent itself – and a increasing number of timepieces had been recreated to work alongside mobile phones.

Luxury goes hi-tech

Watchmakers combined luxury phones that incorporated mechanical watches, while others were featured watches with touchscreens. And Japanese digital watchmaker Casio premiered watches that are able to communicate with smartphones.

"Many young people don't wear watches anymore these days. They use their mobile phones to tell time," said Fabrice Gonet, designer from Slyde Watch.

Gonet and his business partners decided to create an electronic wristwatch with a touchscreen, which "lets people download photos, personalise their watch face," although it does not have the telephone function.

"We thought of making this watch to recreate the link between horlogery and young people," he explained.

Asked if Apple could be a potential competitor, Gonet said that his company has taken out a patent for a virtual mechanic movement.

"The first thing we did was a feasibility study, and we found that there was no patents for this. It was surprising but it convinced us to go into it," he added.

His company is not the only one tapping the smartphone market.

Ulysse Nardin, a Swiss luxury watchmaker, launched what it claimed is "the world's first luxury hybrid smartphone," integrating a mechanical watch rotor into the mobile phone.

The automatic rotor also creates energy to provide additional power to the phone.

Hybrid phones

Bobby Yampolsky, co-founder of UN Cells which make the phones for Ulysse Nardin, admitted that it is insufficient to act as the sole power supply for the phone.

"If you wind it for four, five minutes you can make about a 30 second phone call or a few texts," Yampolsky said.

Nevertheless Yampolsky believes that such hybrid phones are the way forward.

"I feel this is the future. The watch world is over 300 years old. Cellphones are 30 years old. Before mobiles, watches were mobile technology. this is now mobile technology," he said, holding up the phone, each of which costs between $US12,800 and $US130,000.

Mobile phones are "never going to take over completely, but it's going to take up a huge part of the marketplace," he added.

"The philosophy for us when we made this phone is, we asked ourselves, what do men have as a status symbol? We have our watches and we have our cars.

"This is basically the Ferrari that you can bring into a restaurant and put on the dining table," said Yampolsky.

Casio, a long-term player in the watch industry that championed the quartz technology which almost brought about the demise of the mechanical watch, believes that there is still a place for the wristwatch.

This year, it introduced a watch that communicates with the mobile phone.

Connected Casio

Casio's managing director Hiroshi Nakamura explained that if the mobile phone rings during a meeting, a tap of the watch would stop the ringing.

Likewise, an email arriving on a smartphone would also prompt a message on the wristwatch that a mail has been received.

"You don't always keep a mobile phone in your hands, you'll put it in your bag. So it's easier when you're receiving a call to just tap on the watch," Nakamura said.

"We don't think that the iPhone will take the place of a watch. We see more possibilities for the watch," he added.

"If you have a bluetooth watch and a smartphone then you don't have to adjust the time when you're travelling," he noted.

Casio's latest watch will be available by the end of the year, with a launch due in the domestic market before broadening to other markets.

AFP with smh.com.au

But it wasn't only big-ticket bling that inspired watchmakers at this year's show.

With the younger generation opting to use their smartphones to tell time, the watch-making industry has been struggling to reinvent itself – and a increasing number of timepieces had been recreated to work alongside mobile phones.

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