"Short and sexy, with a little flash, a kooky little hat, a few sequins."
Designer Alannah Hill's theory of race wear doesn't fit the classic rule book of lady-like frocks and carefully matched accessories. But it is modern and young and, she added at the launch of David Jones' race wear collection this week, it has a dimension beyond mere fads. "Sequins pick up and flash the sunshine around," she said with a wink, "and a little flash can hide a weary heart."
For less flash, more chic among the spring racing carnival's grown-up punters, Hill suggested "something more tailored, discreet and on the knee". But restraint should end there: "Go a bit wild with accessories: a big sequinned bow as a brooch, a corsage on your arm, false eyelashes, sequins on your toenails, a beautiful handbag..."
Hill's flirty take on racewear - minus all but a few lonely sequins on an Italian cocktail hat - did appear toned down to the sort of chic conservatism more familiar to Melbourne racegoers, in David Jones' short catwalk show this week. A dozen outfits suitable for Flemington's Derby, Cup, Oaks and Stakes days were distilled from the stores' local and international designer collection and modelled in the National Gallery of Victoria's Garden Restaurant.
David Jones' Colette Garnsey and spring carnival ambassador, trainer Gai Waterhouse, purred over the season's key looks by designers including Willow, Alex Perry, Easton Pearson, Alannah Hill and Ginger and Smart.
"The A-line or trapeze dress - that's the one anyone can wear," Garnsey said. Two other looks popped up: a cropped swing jacket over slender pencil skirt likely to be picked up as a glamour set by stylish women, and a softer silhouette either composed of a dress or skirt and blouse or soft "jack-let" in floppier fabrics that drape down the body. Vibrant corals, tangerines and violets were matched in cross-strapped, high-heel sandals with chunkier than usual heels, and matched clutch purses. Derby day's black and white tradition was modernised in optical print and flat, mod combinations.
There was men's wear too: narrower than usual ties, in glossy pink, silver, blue and lavender silk stripes with pale striped shirts and lean, two-button, single-breasted light or mid-grey suits: "That's exactly what I'd wear if I were a man," giggled Waterhouse as a particularly smashing Versace suit appeared. "Something light and summery and pretty, just like that." Later, Waterhouse said this carnival would be the most unusual for 15 years. "It's normally; 'How are we going to win this race?' " she said, curling her fists to illustrate the way she usually spends the carnival."
But this year - there are no horses." The closet frock fancier, chic in a silky Missoni knit dress yesterday, says she intends to just "Enjoy it all. Just be social for once."
At a lunchtime preview of hats by Melbourne's millinery association, Kerrie Stanley, June Edwards and Michelle Cameron explained this spring's pivotal designs: "It's the plate, and the pillbox. That's really it," said Edwards bluntly, her own neat chequered sinamay pillbox cocked over one eye. Kerry Stanley's bright red waved "plate" style was also fastened on one side of her loose curls. "It's moderate sized so you can get some height and movement into it," said Stanley.
And according to Cameron, young Melburnians are catching on to millinery. 'The ones who came to us for fascinators last year, now want millinery; they want cocktail hats for the first time."
And they're racing
