Our whining politicians

How fine a vintage do our political leaders make?

WINESTEIN UNCORKED

Well, my recent ode to Kevin Rudd's bland and boring $14,000 cellar at his official residences certainly generated some passionate responses from some winophiles.

So I thought it'd be remiss of me not to stay with the political theme this week.

The 2006 Howard... thin and on the way out, but with surprising length.

Alas, Tony Abbott has been a little slow to respond to my request for a sneak peak into his cellar.

But I promise to bring you his list in the very near future; hell, it might even help you choose between the two come election day.

But for now, I bring you some of the best (and worst) wines to come out of Canberra, thanks to some interesting reader feedback and a great piece of comedy from Flacco, who spoke about our esteemed politicians on The Science Show on ABC radio in 2006.

The first in Flacco's line-up was the 2006 John Howard, which he described as being "short but with surprising length. It demands time and definitely, according to some tasters, putting down".

Then there was his 2006 Peter Costello, a "lingering prickly drop with just a hint of bitterness, served with raw ambition and plenty of bile".

Host of The Science Show, Robyn Williams, thought the 2006 Kevin Rudd was "aggressively grassy with a hint of freshness", but we think the current 2010 Kevin Rudd appears to be the product of a very wet vintage on the Left Bank. Sharp but dull and quite often finishes short. Not destined for a long life.

Then Ken Sloan, a winemaker from Mistletoe Wines in the Hunter Valley, NSW, got in on the act. He thought the 1996 Paul Keating had not changed one iota. "It is still bitter, astringent and vitriolic, with a short, sharp finish. But one that has definitely not improved with age."

He also contributed the 2007 Morris Iemma: supplied courtesy of Graham Richardson's cellar where it had been stacked. "The new packaging certainly helped it receive preferential treatment in its recent sales campaign."

Winestein rejoiced at the comeback of the 2008 Colin Barnett, which seemed flat and flabby upon first tasting, but burst to life after some clever pairing with mixed Grylls.

The 2007 Malcolm Turnbull has gone to water but is still preferred by Republicans.

Some other reader tasting notes have also come in for the 2010 Tony Abbott, which is not full bodied but crisp, sharp, and refreshing. Best served after some more blander varieties.

The 2010 Barnaby has some potential; it may get good with age but right now it's cheap, easy and pretty much does the job of getting you drunk. Only downside is you have to drink it out of a goon-bag.

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WINESTEIN UNCORKED | DEVIL'S LAIR

2008 Margaret River Chardonnay, $45, 13.5%, 93.5pts
Very supple and sweet for a chardy, and extremely vibrant and violet on the nose. More margarine than butter on the palate, with a delicious lime and light grassy finish on the. Minerality, structure and balance seals the deal, and then some... it's even worth drinking with West Coast fanatics.

2009 Fifth Leg White, $20, 13%, 87pts
This is a refreshing blend of sauvignon blanc (51%), semillion (38%) and chardonnay (11%) with melon and flowery flavours on the nose. There's more happening on the nose than the suttle palate but there's great minerality and structure to this blend. It's a bit Cliff Richard for me; clean cut, inoffensive and durable. Go well with an oily seafood pasta.

2009 Fifth Leg Chardonnay, $20, 13.5%, 85pts
I tried this wine with the family and we all struggled to find definitive flavours in it. It could have something to do with the wine maturing in stainless steel, which helps maintain its lovely purity, with only 25% matured in French oak. Like Cliff, it may need to come out of its closet. Very mellow but still pleasant, if a little thin. Neither here nor there - although my Mum described it as a Mick Jagger - "cos it really comes out and just belts you". So there you go... mum might be the word...